Outdoor Patio Tile Installation
1. Planning:
Creating an outdoor tile patio always starts with a solid plan. Using graph paper, draw the floor layout of the patio space. Using the squares on the graph paper, you can create the pattern for the stones to estimate the amount of tiles needed. Remember that not all tiles are square and that they come in varying sizes. When the stone patio tiles have been ordered, lay them in stacks near the building site, but not so close as to get in the way. Moving large and heavy tiles is something you only want to do once.
If the patio is to be built on a brand new site, a loader will be needed to clear and flatten the site. Before digging, find and mark all underground pipes and electrical lines. Excavation depth in cold, freezing climate should be 12 inches. The depth in warmer climates should be 6 inches.
2. Excavation:
The site will need to be leveled properly before setting the base. This is done by driving stakes into the ground at each corner of the prospective patio and using a leveler to mark equal height at each. A single post is used as a benchmark to set the height at all of the other posts. A laser-based leveling system can do this with the greatest accuracy. The two posts farthest from the home will have markings which are lower than the ones nearest to the house (1/8 inch lower for every foot from the house). The variation in height creates a grade which water can flow off of. Now proceed to dig into the ground 6-12 inches from the markings on the stakes. This level is known as the sub-grade. The sub-grade should be compacted before proceeding.
3. Setting the Patio Base
A mixture of stone dust and 0.75 inch crushed gravel, known as “pack”, should be applied over the sub-grade in 3 inch layers. Every layer should be compacted before proceeding to the next. Add each layer of pack until you reach a height which is 2.5 inches below the markings on the stakes. Grab more stakes and drive them into the ground along the far sides of the patio (between the end stakes). Tie chalk line onto the end posts and slap the line onto the posts in between. The powder on the line will create perfect markings on each of the posts. Now, tie a string between the respective posts, parallel with the house wall (at the grade line created by the chalk string).
4. The Next Layer
The following layer will be created with a mixture of concrete and stone dust. In this step we create the “setting bed” for the patio which will form a hard base for the stone outdoor tile. Mix cement with stone dust in a 1:12 ratio. Mix enough water to form a stiff mixture. Start at one corner of the foundation, spreading out enough mix at a time to support one outdoor tile (don’t add the tiles yet). After each segment has been spread, level it out with a spatula or shovel. Large stone tiles can sink into the foundation a bit, so make the layer thicker than it will ultimately be. The final height should be about 1 inch below the grade lines on the stakes (if you are laying 1.5 inch tile). This allows the outdoor tiles to sink 0.5 inches to end up at the correct grade line.
5. Setting the Stones
Whether slate tile or granite tile, the basic procedure for laying the pieces is the same. Patio stones have a smooth face for the top and a rough face for the bottom. Have a helper on hand to assist in laying the stones into place as gently as possible. Follow the pattern according to your graph paper plan, using a spacer tool to leave 3/8 inch spacing between the tiles. Use a twisting motion on the stone to ensure full contact with the cement. Use a rubber hammer to tap the stones into place.
Stones won’t fit along the edges? In almost all cases, stone patio tiles will not fit the entire space perfectly and must be cut. Draw a straight pencil line on the surface of the tile before cutting with a carbide blade. Hold the tile over the edge of a table or wood beam while cutting. Cutting a thick stone is best done in sections, starting with 1/2 inch depth and increasing by 1/2 inch until it is cut through. High grade stone can be cracked along a score line, while cheaper stone may need to be cut all the way through or risk chipping.
While not necessary, the tiles can be contained within cobblestone edging. This is done by digging a depression into the pack along the edge of the patio. The depression should be set 3.5 inches below the grade of the patio. Cobblestones are set into the depression and sealed into place.
6. Leveling
The patio stones are now in place but must be leveled out. The stones should have a slight grade as specified by the string lines. Each tile should be compared to the one next to it to ensure flushness. Since the cement/dust mix will still be soft, you can lift up the tile and remove/add some of it to adjust levelness. Wash off any mix on the surface of the tile before it dries and becomes difficult to remove. Allow 1 day for hardening.
7. Final Touches
The 3/8 inch spaces in between the stones can be filled in with stone dust. This dust comes in different colors to match the tile. It is applied by pouring it onto the ground and sweeping it into all the cracks. Harden the stone dust by wetting it with a hose and packing it down with a flat blade. The dust should be level with the outdoor tile.
- Learn about creating a retaining wall.
- Learn about creating outdoor kitchens for the patio.
- Learn about concrete paint.
