This isn’t “gardening mythology”. It’s quite right.

The reason is that composting breaks down materials into a chemical state which is easily accessible to the plants. Topsoil is basically a mix of sand and chemically broken down plant materials. In nature, fungi, bacteria heat and water are the main agents of the initial breakdown of materials.

All of these agents are naturally present, and the process of composting is based on them. Earthworms, if present, further refine the broken down materials, which is also a good way of spreading the nutrients for the plants efficiently.

Many formulas exist for compost, including various levels of added nutrients. These are often excellent mixes, but in practice, good compost is a balanced mix of natural materials which is good enough for any gardening purpose. The basic requirements for most plants are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous, which are common to all plants and released by composting.

There are levels of composting which determine the nutrient values of compost. The rule is that the more composting, the stronger the mix becomes as nutrient value in the garden. The extra composting does reduce the volume of the materials, however, so if you’re intending to mulch a large area, the basic composting approach is usually the simplest and most effective approach.
Basic composting

Basic garden compost is comprised of green material, mixed with fine chopped fiber. The fibers act to help bind the soil, and also release nutrients as they decay.  You can also use vegetable scraps, weeds (remove any seeds) and prunings. Lawn clippings are OK, provided they’re well mixed in with bulk materials. They produce very little actual compost, but add valuable water to the mix.

Do not use any animal waste materials, particularly  meats. Manure may be used, but only in small ratios, well mixed in.

Home gardeners usually use containers like turning bins, which are efficient for aerating the mix and promoting the growth of biological agents like fungi and bacteria. This is a chemical, rather than a heat-based process, although you’ll notice the compost does get warm, which is a result of the chemical activities. The greenery also provides moisture, which further promotes dissolution of the materials and encourages fungi and bacteria.

The basic compost is a soft, fibrous brown or blackish humus-like mulch. This material, when added to the soil, is further broken down by soil bacteria and fungi, and acts as a sort of slow release fertilizer, providing nutrients steadily.
This type of compost also acts as good top dressing and a general soil and environment improver. The compost effectively provides a layer of extra soil as it’s assimilated into the garden. It even acts as a temporary weed mat, preventing weeds from sprouting.

Your plants will appreciate the pampering.

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Rolling Vs. Spinning Bins

A backyard compost tumbler can come in two different forms- one with a spinning bin and another with a rolling one. The rolling varieties feature a bin that gets rolled over a set of bearings. The spinning versions have a drum that spins on a metal frame above the ground. Both types are equally effective in terms of aeration and decomposition. The spinning versions tend to be higher off the ground, allowing for easier access. The spinning ones sometimes have wheels on the bottom to allow for easy transport. Rolling tumblers have a textured exterior to allow for a good grip when rolling the unit around. Since they are both equally effective, it comes down to a matter of taste when making the decision between the two.

Aeration

The tumbling action of these bins would not be effective without the addition of oxygen. To get oxygen into the bin, manufacturers have installed holes or screened side vents. Air is allowed to enter the bin without letting any compost escape. If desired, users can supplement the air vents with manual mixing of the compost using a shovel. Oxygen is required because the bacteria need it to survive and multiply. Air vents also allow gas generated by decomposition to escape and not build up inside.

Capacity

Every back porch compost tumbler has a limit on the amount of compost it can hold. If you have a small garden or do not generate a lot of waste, a small tumbler may be for you. You can judge how much compost you could make by saving all of your waste from the yard and kitchen for a month. Put it in a plastic bucket with a lid. Knowing the capacity of the bucket is helpful in determining how much waste you are generating. Compost tumblers are measured in cubic feet.

Compost Tea

In case you didn’t know, the composting process can create a liquid plant feed called compost tea. Compost tea is a nutrient rich liquid that can be used to feed plants. Some tumblers have a reservoir and tap that allows gardeners to extract it with ease. Once extracted it can be poured into the ground near the root system of plants. It penetrates the ground to bring nutrients directly to the roots. If the back porch compost tumbler does not have a reservoir, it may be difficult or impossible to extract the tea.

Homemade Compost Tumbler

Some proactive individuals make their own composters right at home. When you design your own bin, you get to choose exactly how it functions. Capacity, level of aeration, spinning direction and more can be customized. While more involved than simply purchasing a pre-made unit, making your own compost tumbler can be a fulfilling experience. You will most definitely need some sort of sealed drum and frame to get started. You can also branch out and create a wormery, a type of composting bin that uses real worms to break down materials.

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Benefits

A Typical Worm Bin

Otherwise known as “vermicomposting”, using worms to break down degrading food products is actually quite simple. Worms are placed into a special container that you continually add material to. The worms will immediately get to work in converting the material. Not only is the solid material useful for plant feed, but the worms will also produce a special liquid plant food called compost tea. To get the most out of this system, look for a worm composter with an easy to use tap to extract the tea for use in your garden. Worm compost can be used on everything from flowers to green grass.

How It Works

Although harvesting worms from your backyard would work in these systems, most worms are deep burrowers and are not the best choice. For the highest effectiveness, consider using special composting worms. These worms eat the food just below the surface. Why is this important? Well, when you want to extract completed compost from your system, it is generally removed from the bottom. Since the special worms stay just below the surface, you won’t come into contact with the worms during extraction. This also prevents the critters from being accidentally removed from the system. Another benefit to the specialist variety is that when you add new food to the top, you still will not need to handle or come into contact with the worms.
Specifically, you want to look for two types of worms when setting up your system. The two species mostly used that are highly effective are the Red Tiger (or Brandling) worm and the Dendra. You can’t go wrong when using these species, and many composters come with them. Even when purchasing online, many of these systems come with the worms shipped in a special package which keeps them alive during the travel. As a general guideline, use 500g of worms for every cubic meter. (This is about 1000 worms).

Maintenance

Starter Kit

You may be wondering what kind of upkeep is necessary to keep one of these units. It is a remarkably low-maintenance process, in fact. Feel free to go on a long trip with no worries. Simple add waste to the unit before leaving and the worms will have plenty of food to work with. The worms stay in the container for as long as you own it, there is no need to ever remove or re-stock the unit. They are experts at balancing their population and reproducing at the appropriate rate for your composter’s size. They will also adapt to the amount of waste you add. You may think of these systems as outdoor-exclusive, but they actually do quite well indoors. For best results, keep the unit in your kitchen, garage, or anywhere else at or close to room temperature (10-25 C). If you live in an area with extreme weather conditions, consider moving it inside during the winter or summer periods. If subjected to excessive temperatures, the worms will not perform properly or in the worst case, die.

Time Till Harvest

So, how long will it take to make a ready-to-use compost material? A wormery has the added advantage of a compost bin because it can produce faster results. The worm-less environment of a composter is less effective at breaking down material. Worms can have compost ready in a few weeks, depending on the size of your unit and the amount of material inside. Most manufactures will give this information on the package or product details. Most of the waste is converted into liquid. As discusses earlier, this “liquid feed” is a highly nutritious plant feed. In about three months you can tap the container for this liquid and use it in your garden.

Materials Used for Composting

Large Composting Center

Two varieties of waste can be added to the system. These are defined as “greens” and “browns”, and each play a vital role in the balance of the system. Green material degrades quickly and infuses the system with nitrogen and moisture, which are essential. Brown materials rot much slower, but deliver carbon and fiber. As a rule, you want one third of your garbage to be made up of browns. This is the perfect level to prevent excessive runniness of the wormery compost and maintain a neutral acid level.
So what is considered “green”? Items like food scraps include peels, fruit, bread, and coffee grounds. Grass clippings and other garden debris are also green. Rotting manure and herbivore feces like those from rabbits are excellent greens. As you can see, many of these products, especially from your kitchen, can be recycled and put to good use.

The browns cover a wide range of materials too. These include cardboard, sawdust, paper, straw, twigs, bark and fallen leaves. If you have a backyard of any type, you are sure to be able to find at least some of these items.
There are a few additives that do not fall under either category that can be useful to add. Anti acid lime mix can be added every couple weeks to improve the worms performance and reduce excessive acidity. Egg shells add minerals to the mixture and reduce acidity too. Hair and natural fibers like wool and cotton work well too and can be recycled.

Certain things should not be put into the container, especially ones that too acidic or are prone to attracting flies. Fish meat and parts can produce an unpleasant smell. While the worms can digest the fish, use discretion when adding.

Wormeries are a great way to help the environment and your pocketbook as well. The cleanliness and ease of use make them ideal for homes of all sizes. These systems come in every size to match your needs. Common every-day products can be recycled into nutritious compost that can be used to grow new food. After setup, no more direct contact with the worms is needed, which is great for people that are apprehensive when dealing with critters.

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Scared of worms? Try composting the conventional way with a back porch compost tumbler.

Visit Organic Garden Fertilizer and their article on composting for more information on organic gardening.

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